Bike. Beer. Repeat.
From up on the ridgeline, if you had brought your binoculars, you could see right down to Reeder’s Alley and Last Chance Gulch, the historic epicenter of a gold mining boom that spawned Montana’s capital city.
But you didn’t come all the way to Helena to reflect on history. You’re preoccupied with questions of the moment: Which trail to bomb down into the valley below?
The options are as dizzying as the hairpin turns and breathtaking descents that lie ahead. More than 70 miles of sweet single-track crisscross the mountainsides and ridges south of Helena; there’s even more to the east and north. You’d be hard-pressed to hit it all in a weekend — even if you make serious use of the free, Wednesday–Sunday shuttle that runs from downtown. Heck, you might not even make it past the city limits if you let yourself get caught in Vigilante Bike Park, a community-built marvel of sculpted dirt featuring two jump lines, two pump tracks and a skills course.
Those are just a few of the reasons why the International Mountain Bicycling Association designated Helena a silver-level Ride Center — one of only 11 such communities in the world. You can find trail maps and more at BikeHelena.com.
And Helena isn’t the only place in Southwest Montana where well-maintained bike trails can be found right outside the back door.
Just over an hour south, another historic mining city has lately shown up on the radar of mountain biking enthusiasts. Arrayed in the western shadows of the Continental Divide, Butte is the birthplace of Evel Knievel and home to some of the most challenging and rewarding trails anywhere.
Just ask writers and hardcore riders Galen O’Moore and Hurl Everstone. In 2014, on assignment from Bike Magazine, the two tried to tackle the Butte 100, a brutal race that features 16,600 feet of climbing over its 100-mile course. (Three-time winner Tinker Juarez calls it “the most difficult mountain bike race in the country.”) Neither of the two writers finished the race.
Many of Butte’s most popular riding trails are located right along the Continental Divide. Start at the Thompson Park area, nine miles south of town on Montana Hwy. 2, where you’ll find miles of diverse riding options.
If you have a few days, you can even tackle a stunning portion of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route which runs from Butte to Helena (and beyond in both directions).
CRUISIN’ FOR THE BREWS
Here’s another designation that will likely tempt your taste for a Southwest Montana bike tour: Montana is home to the second-highest number of craft and microbreweries per capita in the country. Butte and Helena may be small cities, but you’ll find big-time brews and wicked good times at their popular watering holes.
Quarry Brewing was the first to revive Butte’s historic tradition of handcrafted brewing after a 40-year hiatus. Opened in 2007, Quarry quickly outgrew its original location and moved into the Grand Hotel on Broadway. Brewer Chuck Schnabel keeps five favorites on tap, augmented by a tantalizing rotation of seasonal beers.
Butte Brewing Company draws upon a far deeper history. The original Butte Brewing Company was established in 1885 and remained a local landmark even after it closed. The same recipes used in the brewery’s classic beers have been resurrected, giving today’s visitors a taste of Butte history.
Two newer breweries add to the buzz. Copperwild Brewing opened in February 2015, serving very-small-batch beers out of an old building on Park Street, adjacent to Trimbo’s Pizzeria. Muddy Creek Brewing opened that same month at the corner of Main and Galena, serving bold beers including Muddy Creek Chocolate Stout and Seeing Other People Special Bitter in the space above the Irish Times Pub.
Helena is home to a trio of popular breweries that cater to the city’s melting pot of outdoor enthusiasts, politicians and professionals.
Blackfoot River Brewing Company is known for its ever-changing lineup of beers, making it a great place to sample unusual drafts in a friendly atmosphere. Don’t miss the Single Malt I.P.A., which won a gold medal in the American Strong Pale Ale category of the 2007 North American Beer Awards.
Lewis & Clark Brewing Company offers perennially popular brews such as Back Country Scottish Ale and Miner’s Gold Hefeweizen that draw throngs — as does its schedule of live music performances. Montana is the second-leading producer of barley in the U.S., and Lewis & Clark makes copious, creative use of all that local grain in its beers.
Ten Mile Brewery opened in October 2015 in Helena’s historic Downtown Walking Mall. Founded by three recent college grads and homebrew enthusiasts, the brewery caters to a younger crowd, offering live music on Thursdays and five to seven beers on tap at any time.
Add it all up, and you’ll find plenty to reward a long day on the trails — and plenty to entice you back up the mountain tomorrow. Once you make it to Southwest Montana, only real challenge will be convincing yourself to go back home. Learn more about other awesome mountain biking destinations across the region here.
